Category: Outside Finland

Jos olet kaukokohteitten ystävä, olet varmaan jo tutustunut johonkin Australian kaupunkiin. Sen eteläisin osavaltio Tasmania on kuitenkin suurimmalle osalle Pohjoismaitten matkailijoista täysin tuntematon saari. Lähinnä maataloudella elävä Tasmania omaakin australialaisten eli aussien keskuudessa lempinimet omena-osavaltio tai Australian takapiha. Totta toinen puoli, sillä omenoita kasvatetaan joka lähtöön ja valtaisan mannermaan rinnalla Tasmania vaikuttaa pikkuruiselta 

Tasmania on kuitenkin luontoa rakastavalle todellinen aarreaitta. Peräti 40 % saaresta on kansallispuistoaluetta ja noin 25 % UNESCON maailmanperintökohteitten listalla! Muutakin antia on toki tarjolla vaatimattoman kokoisten kaupunkien sylissä, ja brittien muinoin Tasmaniaan perustamien rangaistusvankiloitten museoalueet kertovat karua todellisuutta menneisyydestä. Ja tietysti casino kulkee aina taskussasi ajankuluna!

Näin pääset Australian mannermaalta Tasmaniaan

Tasmanian uskomattomaan vehreyteen pääset vain mannermaan kautta. Mikään ulkomaalainen lentoyhtiö ei omaa suoria lentoja. Vaikkei välimatka mantereelta ole pitkä, varaudu silti suhteellisen kalliisiin lipunhintoihin!

Lentäen: Lentoyhtiöt Qantas, Virgin ja Rex lentävät päivittäin useita kertoja eri puolille Tasmaniaa, Australian suurimmista kaupungeista käsin. Tasmanian suurimmat lentokentät ovat Hobart ja Launceston, mutta myös esimerkiksi Devonportiin ja Burniehin pääsee lentäen. Lentomatkan kesto on Melbournesta Devonportiin on 1,5 tuntia.

Laivalla: Mantereelta pääset Tasmaniaan laivalla vain Melbournen ulkopuolelta, Gelongesta saaren pohjoisosan rantakaupunkiin Devonportiin. Matkan kesto on 9-12 tuntia, riippuen seilaatko päivä- vai iltalaivalla. Autolautat ovat suuria, uusin Spirit of Tasmania on muuten valistettu Suomessa! 

Tasmanian kolme ”pakollista” kohdetta

Koko saari on luontofanin temmellyskenttää, jossa riittää seikkailukohteita niin ihmisten ilmoilla kuin kaukana korven kätköissä. Käytä siis tilaisuus hyväksesi, sillä uljaat vuoret ja sademetsät odottavat laidunten ja kukkuloitten lomassa. Seuraavassa kolme kohdetta, joita ei Tasmaniaan saapuvan vierailijan tule jättää väliin:

Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Clairin kansallispuisto

Tasmanian suosituin vuori on Cradle Mountain, jonka terävät huiput erottuvat horisontissa jo kaukaa. Maailmanluokan vaellusta ja vuorikiipeilyä arvostavat löytävät vuoren merkityiltä reiteiltä unelmoimansa, mutta osa reiteistä soveltuu mainiosta myös meille ”Meikäläisille”. Ikoninen Dove Lake on jääkauden uurtama ja sen rannalla on tänään upea info- ja vierailukeskus. Vuori on monen muualla tapaamattoman lajin koti ja voit odottaa kohtaavasi myös ihanan nallemaisia ja hitaita wombatteja. Myös Tasmanian paholainen saattaa ilahduttaa sinua. Kannattaa joko vuokrata auto tai osallistua päiväretkelle, toki majoittuminen kansallispuistossa on sekin mahdollista, tosin kallista. 

Port Arthurin historiallinen rangaistusvankila

Tasmanian eteläosassa odottaa Port Arthurin alue, joka oli aikoinaan yksi koko Australian kuuluisimmista rangaistusvankiloista. Mahtavat museorakennukset, entiset sellit ja brittien pikkuruiset asumukset huokuvat kauniin meren edelleen rannalla vankien tuskaa ja toivottomuutta. Voit osallistua joko opastettuun kierrokseen alueella tai seikkailla yksin, pyydä siinä tapauksessa itsellesi kartta jo lippua ostaessasi. 

Hobart ja sen anti

Tasmanian osavaltion pääkaupunki Hobart on aivan Port Arthurin läheisyydessä, kauniin merenlahden rannalla. Kaupungissa vietät helpolla päivän tai pari, sillä antia on taiteesta ja museoista kasinopelaamiseen ja vuoriseikkailuun. Maineikas kallion sisään rakennettu Mona-taidemuseo yllättää jo arkkitehtuurillaan, sekä ulkoa että sisältä tarkasteltuna. Kyseessä on eteläisen pallonpuoliskon suurin yksityinen museo, jonka perustajan David Walshin kokoelman suuruus vetää vertoja monen valtion kansallismuseolle. 

Reilun kilometrin korkuiselle Mount Wellingtonin huipulle kannattaa ajaa ihailemaan joka suuntaan avautuvia uljaita näkymiä. Varaudu kuitenkin hyytävään tuuleen ja talvella jopa lumeen. 

Oluen ystävät ilostuvat kierroksesta ja tuopista kuuluisan ja iäkkään Cascade-panimon tiloissa. Vaihtoehtona on katsastaa ja maistaa vaikkapa Hobart Breweryn luomuksia.  

Tervetuloa Tasmaniaan!

Australiaan saakka ei mielestämme kannata matkata, jollei sen aikana vieraile myös Tasmanian ihanalla ja hieman uniselta tuntuvalla luontosaarella.

Vilnius panorama. Photo by Joana Suslavičiūtė

Vilnius will be hosting NATO Summit 2023 on July 11-12. From 700th anniversary events to the booming tech scene, the Lithuanian capital has more non-political aspects to take into account.

July 17, 2023. On July 11-12, Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania, will be hosting global officials for the NATO Summit 2023. Although the world will have eyes on the Summit, Vilnius has some unique qualities that extend beyond politics.

Here are seven main takeaways that offer a glance at the host of the NATO Summit.

1. 700 years young

Vilnius is celebrating its 700th anniversary throughout the entire 2023. Its multicultural heritage is highlighted in the anniversary program that focuses on connecting the city’s communities and showcasing Vilnius’ rich historical past.

One of the biggest festivities of the year, a free urban festival As Young As Vilnius will be held on July 21-25. Celebrating the day of St. Christopher, the patron saint of Vilnius, and the half-year of the anniversary, the festival will bring together beloved Lithuanian artists and British stars Bastille and Clean Bandit. Another major artistic event will be the city’s first-ever Vilnius Biennial of Performance Art on July 23-August 6. The Biennial will convert the city into one big stage with world-renowned artists from Lithuania and other countries. 

2. Relentless support to Ukraine since the invasion  

Since Russia’s unlawful attack against Ukraine, Vilnius has been a relentless supporter of a war-struck country. The capital has welcomed the influx of people fleeing the war and over 20K of them are now safely established in Vilnius. Ukraine’s President Volodymyr Zelensky bestowed the Rescuer City title upon Vilnius for all of its continued multidirectional support to Ukraine and its people.

Vilnius has also taken a firm public stand to condemn Russia’s aggression. The locals have mobilized for protests, the city officials have named the street, where the Embassy of Russia is based, Ukrainian Heroes Street, and “imprisoned” Putin’s cardboard cutout in the century-old Lukiškės Prison 2.0. Various forms of protests continue to date—runners of a marathon will carry a Ukrainian flag for over 1,500 kilometers, all the way from Kyiv to Vilnius, to raise it in Lukiškės Square specifically for NATO Summit on July 11.

3. Future-forward plans for the largest tech campus in Europe

Lithuanian capital boasts a rapid technological advance. It is already home to three unicorns, among them—Vinted, an online marketplace for buying and selling second-hand items, and Nord Security, a digital security provider. Vilnius’ TechFusion encompasses biotechnologies, fintech, IT, and laser sectors where tens of thousands of professionals create the city’s future. TechZity has just announced plans for a €100M tech campus which is slated to be the largest in Europe and will house 5K employees.

Simultaneously, Vilnius has swiftly become the hub for Europe’s fintechs thanks to the favorable business environment, a future-focused central bank, and a developed technology ecosystem. As another step into a tech future, Vilnius has just become the first city in Europe to launch driverless vehicles into real-life traffic and the bustle of the city streets for last-mile deliveries.

4. Perpetual cultural buzz

Vilnius’ UNESCO-listed Old Town is the largest Baroque old town in Eastern and Central Europe. The cobblestoned streets, narrow alleyways, as well as the blend of Gothic, Renaissance, Classic, and Baroque styles and must-see objects like Gediminas Tower, Vilnius Cathedral, the 16th century Vilnius University, or the Gothic gem St. Anne’s Church emanate the aura of a medieval town.

The artistic side of Vilnius is manifested in the bohemian district Užupis that has cheekily proclaimed itself a separate republic on April 1st—April Fools’ Day—in 1997. The district, which is the smallest and one of the oldest in the city, even has its own currency, anthem, government, and Constitution which has been translated into more than 50 languages and has 41 articles such as “Everyone has the right to be unique” and “Everyone has the right to idle.”

5. Creator of Pink Soup Fest and bagels 

This June Vilnius celebrated Pink Soup Fest—an entire festival dedicated to the iconic summertime dish, cold beetroot soup šaltibarščiai.  The dish has become an instant hit with any traveler coming to Lithuania, therefore the festivalgoers celebrated that by dressing up like the soup’s ingredients and sliding down the hill into an artificial bowl. Another hidden secret of Vilnius’ gastro scene—New York might have put bagels in the spotlight, but they actually originated in this region. 

The city’s multicultural cuisine stems from Jewish, Polish, and Lithuanian nobles’ roots and combines traditionally prepared ingredients like pickled vegetables and fresh seasonal produce. Fine dining is thriving as well—two of Vilnius’ restaurants, Džiaugsmas and Nineteen18, have been recognized by the prestigious La Liste ranking.

6. Cinematic background for Stranger Things and Chernobyl

In recent years Vilnius has become a tempting destination for filmmakers because of multiple cinema-worthy locations. When Netflix filmed parts of Season 4 of the cult-favorite Stranger Things in the century-old former prison Lukiškės Prison 2.0, Vilnius rapidly became a destination for set-jetters. The Prison invites to day and night tours, parties, concerts, and other events and gives a glimpse of parts of the facility featured in the show. Multiple other foreign projects have been filmed in Vilnius: Netflix’s Young Wallander, HBO’s Chernobyl, the historical TV series Sisi, and more.

7. Capital of hot-air balloons

As the only capital in Europe to officially allow regular hot-air balloon rides over the city, Vilnius’ sky is full of them every summer. Airborne travelers can get a good view of the city’s colorful panorama and the lush greenery surrounding it. Those yearning for more adventures high up in the air can take a stroll on the TV Tower, one of the 30 tallest TV towers in the world, attached only by cable.

Vilnius is also designed for explorations on foot—walkable distances allow discovering locals’ favorite hangout spots, as well as artistic, architectural, and cultural objects without the added hassle of the traffic.

As Europe slowly approaches the warmer part of the year, those looking to stumble upon yet-undiscovered places or see it all from a new perspective are invited to experience flower tourism in Lithuania. Lithuania Travel, the national tourism development agency, invites visitors to explore the flowering regions in an unforgettable blossoming trip.

April 29, 2022. Lithuania Travel, the national tourism development agency, together with the country’s tourist information centers invites visitors from all over the world to tour the country in full bloom and stumble upon yet-undiscovered places such as a primrose valley in Šeteniai, the birthplace of Nobel Prize winner Czesław Miłosz, or a daisy feast in an authentic Ilzenbergas Manor, located on the Lithuanian-Latvian border.

According to Neringa Sutkaitytė, local tourism expert at Lithuania Travel, spring is a perfect time to explore the true beauty of Lithuania. “In the coming months, the country will be in full bloom and the visitors will be able to admire the blossoming nature throughout the country,” she said.

Here are five ideas for an unforgettable spring trip to admire the vibrant plethora of flowers — matricarias, daffodils, forget-me-nots, even sakuras — in Lithuanian countryside.

1. Daffodil feast in Lithuania’s resort town

Although the first mentions of the daffodil, also known as narcissus, can be traced as far as ancient Greece, the flower found its popularity in Europe only a few centuries ago. Druskininkai, Lithuania’s resort town best known for the abundance of therapeutic and wellness SPAs, is quite fond of the flower. 

Each year, Vijūnėlė Park lights up with the yellow blooming daffodils — the spring blossoms cover almost the entire area of the park, with more than half a million flowers blooming, making it a sight not to be missed.

2. Primroses straight from the pages of Nobel Prize winner’s book

When visiting Šeteniai, the birthplace of Nobel Prize winner Czesław Miłosz, it is impossible to miss the area’s wildflower frenzy. In the valley of Nevėžis, also known as Miłosz’s Meadow, primroses blossom. The flower was extensively mentioned in the poet’s autobiographical novel “The Issa Valley.” 

Since primrose is considered to be a mood-lifting flower, it is suited best for those who are under a lot of stress or are often in a bad mood. The flower, which is affectionately called the “golden key,” marks the transition to summer and will be a delight in May when visiting the Kėdainiai district.

3. Experiencing sakura by sight, smell, and taste

Sakura, the Japanese cherry tree that everyone loves, has spread all over Lithuania. Among the must-see sites for the fans of the tree is Sakura park in Vilnius. The park is adored by the locals and tourists who come here to have lunch, take a selfie, or enjoy spontaneous music or art performances. The park was founded in 2001 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Japanese diplomat Chiune Sugihara — a collection of 200 trees was a gift from Japan’s people to Lithuania to strengthen the friendly relations between the two countries.

In Marijampolė, sakura lovers gather in Cat’s Yard. Surrounded by sakuras, visitors can admire multiple murals and are invited to try to count the statues of cats owned by the town’s founder, countess Pranciška Butlerienė.

Visitors can not only smell and admire sakuras, but also taste them in the largest Japanese garden in Europe. Located in Mažučiai, Kretinga district, the garden hosts sakura tea tasting ceremonies all throughout the blossom season. The tea is made from sakura blossoms pickled in Japanese plum vinegar and sprinkled with sea salt — this kind of tea is only drunk on special occasions in Japan.

4. Lithuania’s freedom flower among 200 thousand crosses

Myosotis, also known as forget-me-not, is used throughout Lithuania to commemorate the Soviet aggression in Vilnius in the early 1990s. In May, thousands of forget-me-nots bloom on the Hill of Crosses — a world-famous, must-visit location near Šiauliai. The tradition of bringing a cross to leave on the hill began almost 200 years ago and by the early 20th century it was already known as a sacred place for masses, devotions, and pilgrimages. 

Even though it is a remarkable sight at any time of the year, the hill turns blue with thousands of forget-me-nots in the spring, making the view even more phenomenal, especially during the so-called “golden hour.” The full effect of the lush rolling fields and blue flowers unfurl before visitors who come to the hill shortly after sunrise or before sunset. 

5. Little daisies in an authentic manor

Daisies are the pride of Ilzenbergas Manor, located on the Lithuanian-Latvian border. The 17.5-hectare park is a great place to stroll around and immerse oneself into the life of nobility. There are a myriad of sculptures around the park, as well as an authentically restored barn, smokehouse, sauna, artillery battery, and even a 3D replica of the Stelmužė tree, one of the oldest oaks in Europe. 

After a tour, visitors can grab some tasty goodies from Ilzenbergas farm —  the only manor in the Baltics that continues the traditions of natural farming —  and have a picnic among the daisies for an unforgettable spring experience.

Tourists eager to explore other blossoming destinations, can find more information on the Lithuania Travel website.

For many people, having the chance to visit the city of Las Vegas in Nevada can be a once in a lifetime opportunity. With this in mind, here are a few tips on how you can make the most of your stay.

As with any holiday, it can be a good idea to plan your trip before you go. Research the area, and find out which attractions are nearby that might be of particular interest to you. This can help you to plan your time, as well as your budget, during you stay. You will also be able to better prioritise the activities which are available to you.

Many people who visit Las Vegas are keen to experience the casino scene for which the area is renowned. The Las Vegas strip, in particular, has become one of the most famous casino locations in the world, so it’s unsurprising that many visitors are keen to experience what this area has to offer. However, if you’re keen to get involved with the action, then it can be a good idea to brush up on your game skills before you do. If you don’t happen to live close to a casino, then you can always try playing online at sites like partypoker in order to perfect your playing techniques. You may also want to look into what each of Las Vegas top casinos has to offer, so that you can be sure to visit those which best cater for your personal preferences.

In addition, it can be a good idea not to simply get caught up in the casino culture of this area, unless that is the only reason for your visit. Why not book yourself into one of the great restaurants, or buy tickets for a show? Las Vegas is brands itself as ‘The Entertainment Capital of the World’, so make sure you don’t miss out on everything else this area has to offer.

Cruising along the world’s longest river combines sun, culture, ancient moments and all on a comfortable floating hotel.

If the Nile didn’t exist then Egypt wouldn’t, not at least with its present population: currently 76 million and adding another 2 million mouths annually. Looking at the country’s current geography, it’s difficult to believe that seven millennia ago it was lush savannah roamed by lavish wildlife such as elephants, gazelles and lions before a climate change altered things drastically. Apart from the long ribbon of water and its adjacent green bands that snakes its way from sources in Ethiopia and Uganda, desert ochre is the primary colour nearly everywhere.

For all but the hardiest Egyptologist, a cruise from Luxor to Aswan is an intensive history lesson where knowledgeable guides deliver a bewildering series of facts, figures and background in a veritable flood. For example, Egypt is now an Arab republic, but most of what is on display was created and built by ancient Egyptians – a completely different people. Arabs immigrated just a few centuries after year zero, but the countries (there were two: upper and lower kingdoms) had already been overrun and ruled by Libyans, Nubians, Persians and Greco-Roman kings and pharaohs. Similarly, after the Arabs, came the Ottoman Turks, French and the British – all of whom absorbed to some degree local influences while leaving their own marks, sometimes literally in the form of carved graffiti defacing aged stone monuments.

The 360-odd riverboats that now sedately ply between the two cities of Luxor (Thebes in ancient times) and the beautiful metropolis of Aswan (where the British smartly based themselves for their 19th Century Sudan campaigns) are similar in design: up to five decks above the waterline with cabins and a restaurant, bar and reception to the sun deck with its pool and canopy-providing shade. Most are given 4- or 5-star status but that may not always match a traveller’s definition.

One thing is certain; the infamous health problems are as much a thing of the past as the itinerary. Food is washed and cooked in mineral water sparing the toilets the occupancy rates of yesteryear. And in addition to the inclusive excursions to see temples, tombs and towns, options cover hot air balloon sunrise rides, day-trips to Cairo plus sound and light shows. The latter two are not recommended: the Egyptian capital cannot be seen in hours and the shows lack any movement as the title implies.

Nearly all cruises start from Luxor, but before casting off, visits to the nearby Luxor and Karnak Temples are hors d’oeuvres as a taste of things to come. Both are fine examples of ‘Egyptian’ sites (as against those showing the Greek or Roman influences of the rulers of the day) of worship to their gods – the main trio being the great sun god Amun-Re, his wife Mut (Mistress of Heaven) and their son Khonsu (Moon God). Then it’s off to the Valleys of the Kings and Queens on the arid west bank of the river where royalty and nobility have their final resting places hacked out of rock and decorated with finely worked and coloured hieroglyphs, all by hand, and stocked with treasure for the afterlife. Taking in this plethora of superlatives taxes the perception, brain and memory. Fabulous sights such as the two 20-metre high Colossi of Memnon statues (remains of Amenhotep III’s temple), the Nobles Tombs and the Ramesseum appear as side shows compared with Queen Hatshepsut’s stunning temple at Deir al-Bahari. If possible, a visit the nearby artisans’ village, where the people who created these places lived and died reveals the lives of the craftsmen who created this exquisite ornateness. 

Messing about on the river

After setting sail, the sun deck is the place to watch local life pass by: for ornithologists alone, there is the eye-boggling spectacle of hoopoes, egrets, cormorants, herons and ibis flying, fishing, wading or just floating by on branches. Their colours and sounds are matched by local fishermen and riverbank villages complete with compulsory mosques. Mud-brick dwellings are not usually painted or decorated, but now some do so – for the foreign visitors a guide informs.

As the water and day drift by, it’s worth recalling that 95% of Egypt’s population now live by or on the river and its floodplain, which waters just 5% of its land. Until the High Dam was built, the annual autumn flood used to decide its economic fate: a good wash of Ethiopian mud and nutrients would feed the floodplain and ensure a bounteous harvest. ‘Nilometres’ measured its high point and thus formed the basis of that year’s taxes.

Pulling in to Edfa, horse-drawn caléches line up quayside in expectation. (Although the French were in Egypt a mere five years, before Nelson evicted them, it’s considered a Francophone country). Here, the Ptolemaic temple to the falcon god Horus (237-57BC) and many succeeding sites are constructions of Greco-Roman rulers who used local culture for their own purposes, but were bewitched too. The entrance and hypostyle hall architecture shows their influences in this well-preserved structure.

Next port of call down, Kom Ombo’s impressive approach at sunset would persuade anyone to get out a camera and burn an unforgettable memory. This temple is unusually dedicated to two idols: Haroeris (the good doctor) and Sobek (the crocodile god). The crushed stone used to colour the walls and columns remains vivid.  As the sun sets, the flora and fauna cast gentle curved outlines on the water as feluccas and fishermen draw dark shapes against the red glow on the horizon. The silence is serene. Dinner awaits. Could it be better? 

Aswan – dams, desert and delights

Early signs of nearing this city are the feluccas with their distinctive angular lateen sail. This southernmost city is a centre of the Nubian people. In pharaonic times, there existed Lower Egypt around the river mouth called the White Kingdom and Upper Egypt spreading out from Thebes named the Red Kingdom after the nearby stone. Nubia, with its dark-skinned people occupied an area that reaches far into north Sudan.

Smooth rock formations and outcrops, the First Cataract, dot the river and banks. The city’s business and residential buildings, hotels, mosques and shops perch on the east side. Two islands, Elephantine and Kitchener’s, serve different purposes as residential and recreational areas between the two banks. At night the west lights up to show the nobles’ cave graves of Qubbet al-Hawa.

Time here is precious as the list of places to visit would demand longer than is given, from the quarry where stone was hewn for temples and tombs down river to Abu Simbel. Not to mention the souk, dams, museums, Coptic cathedral and monastery, Old Cataract Hotel, Corniche, the Aga Khan’s tomb and local Nubian culture. Their straw coffee filter is just the tip of differentiation.

To keep it simple, there’s the relocated Philae Temple, near the British-built Old Dam completed in 1902 after 13 years. This was dwarfed when the contentious High Dam was completed in 1970 reducing the threat of flood, storing precious water for dry years, supplying 65% of Egypt’s then power supply then and creating the world’s largest reservoir: Lake Nasser.

Conversely, the annual wash with its precious silt was halted causing farmers to use fertilisers for the first time, the extinction of several bird species and disrupting the environment along the river to its mouth. Locals claim the Nubian culture will never recover. While under construction, a massive international effort in the 1960s rescued the most precious pharaonic archaeological treasures.

Abu Simbel was one, located less than 100 metres from its original site, it was built by Ramesses II to glorify himself, his favourite wife Nefertari and celebrate his so-called victory at Kush and intimidate the local Nubians too as it was a public place, not reserved just for nobles or priests. This is born out by the immense statues outside the two temples, now located inside a man-made hillock.

Built in the 13th Century BC it was re-discovered in 1813 by a Swiss explorer, J L Burkardt, when sailing passed who unfortunately informed Givanni Belzoni. The Italian promptly went and looted it as soon as he could. Carvings with dates bear testimony to his avarice. But the grandeur could not be stolen. A cruise along the Nile forms indelible memories that will remain lifelong, as it is eternal.   

Egyptian idiosyncrasies

The British poet Shelley was inspired by the Ramesseum to pen his classic Ozymandias. Similarly, Agatha Christie appropriately wrote ‘Death on the Nile’ at Aswan’s Old Cataract Hotel. Alexandria was home and setting for Lawrence Durrell’s ‘The Alexandra Quartet’.

Due to its Francophone status, continental twin-pin plugs are standard.

Alcoholic beverages are not cheap in Egypt and on board are very expensive e.g. €5.50 for a half-litre can of local Sakkara lager.

Though the crew and guides are bought off by a tip paid in advance (GB£15), other Egyptians expect baksheesh off tourists. And bargaining is ubiquitous – with a third of the original asking price as normal.Government shops though are both cheap and hassle-free. Ask for their address.

Quietly inquire if alcohol is for sale – just because it’s not on the menu doesn’t mean there’s none available. As alcoholic drinks are scarce and expensive, stock up at the airport on arrival where a good range of products are both available and illogically cheap. The local lager and aniseed brew are good; whiskey of doubtful quality and the wine may not be to your palate. ‘Egyptian champagne’ – karkadeh is a refreshing non-alcoholic concoction made from dried hibiscus flowers.

Smoking is an Egyptian way of life. Tobacco is consumed voraciously in cigarette form or via a water pipe (sashwa) and getting close to a local man (women are never seen smoking in public except in big cities) can form the impression there is national halitosis. Food is not spicy unless added. Tea and coffee are sweetened to the point of nausea – 5 teaspoons per small cup. And the coffee has a thick foundation at the bottom so don’t throw your head back and pour it down. Curiously, fish is rarely on the menu.

In Aswan, most tours call in at a perfume house where the essence oils for famous scents are produced. If it is a reputable approved establishment, it’s a bargain. You will be proudly informed that western products (that have different names here) are 90% alcohol and water which disappear quickly, whereas essence never evaporates. This is true and a small inexpensive bottle makes a great gift or souvenir. And it is impossible not to have at least one small stone carving or papyrus in your suitcase at the end.

Jewellery is another memento, but caveat vendor – choose your shop carefully. Herbs too and natural indigo are cheap and widely sold. Egyptian cotton is world famous, but expensive except from a state store. Buying and wearing the regional costume, a one-piece shoulder-to-toe    gallabaya is another must-have.

Lastly there are two schools on the origins of the words Egypt and Nubia. For the former, it either derives from the ancient word kemet meaning black soil – or if you prefer, black people as some claim.

Similarly, Nubia comes from the word nub meaning ‘land of gold’ for which it was renowned or the tribe Nuba that inhabited some of the kingdom then. Nubians were Christians for about a thousand years until the 15th Century too.